Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Archive for June, 2012

King Matthias

Crossing the border from Slovakia into Hungary our guide began our orientation by listing Hungary’s enemies and recounting the wars they mostly lost. The late 19th and early 20th century years were bright – a burst of economic and artistic growth; then two devastating wars, after which they were shoved behind the iron curtain. Recently there has been some growth mixed with much uncertainty.

It is impossible for me to imagine what my mindset would be if I hadn’t been born in a country that has always been free. What if I looked back on a history that dated to the ninth century and could only point to 50 good years? (more…)

Advertisements

Read Full Post »

 

Brides roam the square in Praque with an entourage that includes a mother, a groom and a photographer. They pose in front of all the major attractions for the tourist paparazzi.

I began to suspect they might actually be audience builders for a designer label and in fact, some are models for wedding catalogs. Prague is a popular nuptial destination that draws young couples from all over the world.

(more…)

Read Full Post »

The official seal of the Kingdom of Wallachia

The Czech town of Stramberk near the border of Poland is the seat of the Kingdom of Wallachia, the figment of a marketer’s overactive imagination. Tomas Harabis issued passports to the tongue-in-cheek mini-nation and established it in the hearts of the people with a flag, currency, stamps, a patron saint and a beer god.

Despite a coup that resulted in a court case and a deposed monarch, the economy of the fictional kingdom flourishes, so much so that the townspeople are building beautiful new homes off the money they get from tourists to their idyllic town.

If you go: Try a tasty ear! Legend has it that the Mongols used to slice the ears off people who annoyed them. In the spirit of making a profit out of a painful situation you can buy a gingerbread “ear” filled with fruit nestled in rich cream. The entire town of Stramberk smells like gingerbread.

Our Hungarian tour guide Peter

Our tour guide Peter encourages us to change our thinking. How you think about the heart of Europe (calling these countries Eastern Europe offends the residents; if I tried to explain I’d have a Master’s thesis) changes depending on what framework you use: history—who held the power; ethnicity—what backgrounds and religious faiths make up the population; geography—where borders get drawn and redrawn; and generations—what people have experienced. For example, after the communist regime fell, opportunities opened up for the young people with language and computer skills, but their parents lost their jobs and the security they depended on under communism.

Loss is a theme in this part of the world. With every regime change whole populations lose their homes and this has been going on for centuries. There have been bright spots: when a king was generous with his people (good King Charles IV of Prague); when peace settled long enough for the people to get ahead (early twentieth century) and today, with the establishment of the European Union and open borders, although some would disagree.

local guide Katka, praguewalker.com

The young people have hope. They value education, enjoy travel and embrace change. That’s as lovely to see as the stunning architecture in the city squares.

Read Full Post »

Havekska Market

Lokal (The Dump) features updated Czech classics at low prices in a 1980s retro style designed to recall a charmless train station. A menu note says they subscribe to the Slow Food movement that combines honest work and fresh ingredients “caught up with spices, bad fats which keep longer, and other tricks to make the food faster and cheaper.” That’s either incredible honesty or a bad translation but it was packed with young people, the décor was clever and fun and the food was fresh and tasty (I ordered a roasted portion of duck with red cabbage and apples to avoid any possibility “bad fat.”) (more…)

Read Full Post »

Each ring is a story in the family tree

I don’t print my digital photos anymore. I file them away in computer directories and post one occasionally on a blog. Albums with yellowing pages herniate generations of family photos from their centers. They weigh on my closet shelves and on my mind. I don’t want leave any messes for my children to clean up, but I do want to leave them stories.

 What I’m throwing away

All photos of scenery. (None of us possessed the talent of an Ansel Adams)

Faded photos and blurry snapshots

Anonymous portraits*

Photo frames & portrait folders

All pictures that are duplicates and photo strips, nameless pets and posed soubrettes*

*unless I can make up a great story about that lass with the feathers

What I’m keeping

Photos that tell stories; I’m not in the record keeping business. I’m in the story telling business. (more…)

Read Full Post »

%d bloggers like this: